Walking in the footsteps of Alfred Wainwright is an experience like no other. The gentle breeze rustling across Innominate Tarn sends ripples dancing through its tranquil waters, while the majestic Pillar and Great Gable loom large in the south, beckoning walkers to embark on a most spectacular of Lakeland crags.
A half century ago, Wainwright sketched out an itinerary that would become one of Britain's most popular multi-day trails, connecting St Bees Head with Robin Hood's Bay through three national parks - an ambitious undertaking by any measure. Today, the 190-mile route is traversed by thousands each year, contributing to the local economy and cementing its place in the hearts of walkers.
However, the journey has not been without its challenges. Until recently, the path was largely unmarked on Ordnance Survey maps and had sections with no public right of way. But thanks to a £5.6m investment from Natural England, the Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project is underway - aiming to be completed by early 2026.
A couple of weeks into my journey, I found myself navigating Dent's rugged terrain down Raven Crag, where I encountered an enticing duo of curly-haired Herdwick sheep posing obligingly for photographs. The newly repaired trails and signs brought a welcome sense of confidence, as I followed Nannycatch Beck meandering through the elfin realm beneath rowan and hawthorn.
Beyond the Lake District's borders, in the Yorkshire Dales, I discovered the transformative power of infrastructure improvements. Heavy-duty stepping stones on Nine Standards Rigg protected precious peat ecosystems while ensuring walkers' boots stayed dry. Along the Swaledale valley, newly realigned pathways led me past the remnants of gloriously named Crackpot Hall and into the otherworldly realm of Gunnerside Gill.
My journey ultimately took me to the Vale of Mowbray, where a welcome return to hillwalking awaited. Bernie McLinden's emphasis on improving signs for local people as much as long-distance hikers will benefit those traversing this beautiful landscape.
In Little Beck Wood on my final day, I found myself in an idyllic Arcadia - mossy boulders and ferns dotted the landscape amidst soaring shale cliffs and chiming birdsong. A few miles from Robin Hood's Bay and the end of the journey lay before me.
As the trail nears completion, a renewed focus on accessibility is evident. Angela Hobson, Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project manager, recalls visiting White Mossy Hill with her daughter and saying, 'You'll be able to walk over this with your children and they can walk over it with their grandchildren.' 'I helped build it,' she beams. Wainwright's legacy has been refreshed - a testament to the enduring power of his trail and its capacity to unite generations.
The trip was provided by Macs Adventure, which offers various Coast to Coast holidays, including a 14-day itinerary (12 days' walking) from £1,579.
A half century ago, Wainwright sketched out an itinerary that would become one of Britain's most popular multi-day trails, connecting St Bees Head with Robin Hood's Bay through three national parks - an ambitious undertaking by any measure. Today, the 190-mile route is traversed by thousands each year, contributing to the local economy and cementing its place in the hearts of walkers.
However, the journey has not been without its challenges. Until recently, the path was largely unmarked on Ordnance Survey maps and had sections with no public right of way. But thanks to a £5.6m investment from Natural England, the Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project is underway - aiming to be completed by early 2026.
A couple of weeks into my journey, I found myself navigating Dent's rugged terrain down Raven Crag, where I encountered an enticing duo of curly-haired Herdwick sheep posing obligingly for photographs. The newly repaired trails and signs brought a welcome sense of confidence, as I followed Nannycatch Beck meandering through the elfin realm beneath rowan and hawthorn.
Beyond the Lake District's borders, in the Yorkshire Dales, I discovered the transformative power of infrastructure improvements. Heavy-duty stepping stones on Nine Standards Rigg protected precious peat ecosystems while ensuring walkers' boots stayed dry. Along the Swaledale valley, newly realigned pathways led me past the remnants of gloriously named Crackpot Hall and into the otherworldly realm of Gunnerside Gill.
My journey ultimately took me to the Vale of Mowbray, where a welcome return to hillwalking awaited. Bernie McLinden's emphasis on improving signs for local people as much as long-distance hikers will benefit those traversing this beautiful landscape.
In Little Beck Wood on my final day, I found myself in an idyllic Arcadia - mossy boulders and ferns dotted the landscape amidst soaring shale cliffs and chiming birdsong. A few miles from Robin Hood's Bay and the end of the journey lay before me.
As the trail nears completion, a renewed focus on accessibility is evident. Angela Hobson, Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project manager, recalls visiting White Mossy Hill with her daughter and saying, 'You'll be able to walk over this with your children and they can walk over it with their grandchildren.' 'I helped build it,' she beams. Wainwright's legacy has been refreshed - a testament to the enduring power of his trail and its capacity to unite generations.
The trip was provided by Macs Adventure, which offers various Coast to Coast holidays, including a 14-day itinerary (12 days' walking) from £1,579.