The allure of western France lies not just in its famous resorts but also in the untold gems that dot its coastline. One such treasure is La Tremblade, a village where tradition meets modern charm.
A visit to this charming village begins with a spectacle – the flames that rise up from long pine needles inside an open oven, cooking mussels in their own juices. This is the curious tradition of moules à l'éclade, a novel way of cooking mussels developed by local oyster farmers along the River Seudre.
The evening sets in at La Grève, where the avenue lined with colourful, ramshackle huts and rustic pontoons offers an alluring venue for a sunset meal. The atmosphere is lively and fascinating, especially in a working oyster-farming village. We start with platters of fresh seafood, including local cheeses, charcuterie, saucisson, and a big blousy lettuce.
As we stroll through the village, our eyes land on the Église Notre-Dame de Royan, another mid-century marvel that's hard to miss. The market hall next door is equally impressive, with its futuristic vibe and 50-metre-span dome lit by space-age skylights.
Our beach-hopping adventure takes us to Plage Le Vieux Phare in Mornac-sur-Seudre, where our children bring out their bodyboards for a fun day of surfing the Atlantic waves. We also take a hike across soft sand to the life-guarded area, jumping and riding ferocious waves that vanish into sea spray.
The next day, we visit Plage de Boyardville on the Île d'Oléron, where we park beneath towering pine trees and follow the path to a perfect crescent-shaped beach with a shallow lagoon. The silhouette of Fort Boyard looms in the distance – a reminder that this tiny island has a rich history.
As dusk falls, we return to La Tremblade for our final meal at La Cabane de la Grand-Mère, where moules à la brasero is cooked on a griddle over an open fire. The recipe, borrowed from oyster-farming communities near the Mediterranean, sees mussels marinated with herbs and olive oil before being cooked to perfection.
With every bite, we agree that these are the best mussels we've ever had – better even than moules à l'éclade! When I ask the owner how they're cooked, she reveals the secret recipe, which includes a mix of all the very best flavours. When I compare it to moules à l'éclade, she smiles and says that while the éclade is indeed a bigger spectacle with its flames, these mussels are still unbeatable.
As our French adventure comes to an end, we're left with memories of stunning beaches, delectable seafood, and a taste of la vie en rose in this beautiful corner of western France.
A visit to this charming village begins with a spectacle – the flames that rise up from long pine needles inside an open oven, cooking mussels in their own juices. This is the curious tradition of moules à l'éclade, a novel way of cooking mussels developed by local oyster farmers along the River Seudre.
The evening sets in at La Grève, where the avenue lined with colourful, ramshackle huts and rustic pontoons offers an alluring venue for a sunset meal. The atmosphere is lively and fascinating, especially in a working oyster-farming village. We start with platters of fresh seafood, including local cheeses, charcuterie, saucisson, and a big blousy lettuce.
As we stroll through the village, our eyes land on the Église Notre-Dame de Royan, another mid-century marvel that's hard to miss. The market hall next door is equally impressive, with its futuristic vibe and 50-metre-span dome lit by space-age skylights.
Our beach-hopping adventure takes us to Plage Le Vieux Phare in Mornac-sur-Seudre, where our children bring out their bodyboards for a fun day of surfing the Atlantic waves. We also take a hike across soft sand to the life-guarded area, jumping and riding ferocious waves that vanish into sea spray.
The next day, we visit Plage de Boyardville on the Île d'Oléron, where we park beneath towering pine trees and follow the path to a perfect crescent-shaped beach with a shallow lagoon. The silhouette of Fort Boyard looms in the distance – a reminder that this tiny island has a rich history.
As dusk falls, we return to La Tremblade for our final meal at La Cabane de la Grand-Mère, where moules à la brasero is cooked on a griddle over an open fire. The recipe, borrowed from oyster-farming communities near the Mediterranean, sees mussels marinated with herbs and olive oil before being cooked to perfection.
With every bite, we agree that these are the best mussels we've ever had – better even than moules à l'éclade! When I ask the owner how they're cooked, she reveals the secret recipe, which includes a mix of all the very best flavours. When I compare it to moules à l'éclade, she smiles and says that while the éclade is indeed a bigger spectacle with its flames, these mussels are still unbeatable.
As our French adventure comes to an end, we're left with memories of stunning beaches, delectable seafood, and a taste of la vie en rose in this beautiful corner of western France.